As I sit here contemplating my results and things that could have gone different at this years IFMAR World Championships 2024, I've decided to let you see my set-up process as I proceeded through the week and the reasons behind each decision every round. Things that are clear in hindsight is that the US drivers were on thier back feet the entire weekend with a big curveball of how high grip the track was this year compared to two years ago. The diff and roll center adjustments alone took many runs of getting closer and closer resulting in a 'new car' each time on the track that we had to first adjust to and then decipher what needed to be improved yet again for the next round. Feel free to follow along as I go though every run and the changes I made to get the best car I could in the allotted time under the circumstances given.
First I need to lay some groundwork on set-up things we have been trying recently and how they helped (and hurt) at the start of the worlds event. By now it seems to be pretty common knowledge around the pro ranks at least that many have tried or are running/trying 2 gear set-ups in the diffs. This is achieved simply by removing one set of cross pins and spider gears from the diff internals. I can't speak to other companies but I have had no issue with this on the Kyosho diffs, however do note this does put more stress on those internals and failure is theoretically a greater possiblity. The characteristics noticed at recent races on the home front are perhaps a more consistent feel over longer runs. This I belive is due to their being more oil in each diff and the oil is also thicker (on average double of what you would normally run) because there is less resistance with only 2 internal spider gears vs. 4. To narrow down the feel of each diff under my current feelings (subject to change with more testing) is this:
Rear - the most improvement (at US tracks at least) where perhaps more corner speed is achieved, quicker rotation, but also better grip feel on exit when wanting to square up finishing a corner.
Front - the next most noticable with a more aggressive steering feel and perhaps pulls more through the corners.
Center - least noticeable so far, but I think that may change with more testing. Benefits again being more consistent over long runs and perhaps better bump handling. This is still being tested out and diff weights being optimized etc. (You will notice at worlds this was the only diff that remained as 2 gear in our cars as Reno felt on Euro style (higher grip, higher speed) tracks that this diff in 2 gear perhaps helps with the imperfections in the track and again, perhaps a better/ more consistent feel over longer runs.
Now for the starting set-up to notice just how far off we were compared to where we end up. Please note the traction was perhaps the absolute highest during that first run and most thought grip would come down throughout the weekend. But if the first run was 100 on the grip scale, I would say (at least in the groove) that we only dropped to maybe 95 by the end. Grip stayed high thought the groove got tighter.
Starting SET-UP
Diffs:
F-50K (2 gear, 10/20 gears)
C-70K (2 gear, 12/18 gears) (12/18 gears require another 50% or so thicker than 10/20)
R-40K (2 gear, 10/20 gears)
-A Block - (Steel) Center, B Block - (Steel) up, C - Sm Dot Down, D - 2.5 dot down + out)
-New (Proto) KPI front hubs w/ 20* Caster, Spaced with 1mm in front and 2mm behind (This part is still being decided if it will be produced)
Shocks:
Front - Middle on tower, out on arm, Red 70mm spring, 1.2 x 7 (600 oil), Bladder w/ foam behind + no screw in Emulsion cap, 2mm uptravel limiter.
Rear- Middle on tower, out on arm, Red 81mm spring, 1.3x7 (550 oil), Bladder w/ foam behind + no screw in Emulsion cap.
-Long rear shock standoff
-2.4 front / 2.6 rear Swaybar,
-Ackerman hole # 2f (extra hole toward back of car, utilizing 2nd hole from front) Ackerman plate shimmed up 2mm with no shims under Steering link (To adjust bump out to be minimal)
-F 23mm, R 25mm RH,
-Universals Front and Rear
-Hard Arms front and rear
-Standard hex front and rear (Had been running wide at home but to make IFMAR width had to narrow up the car)
-Aluminum rear upright with insert hole high and inside. Spaced w/ 3mm ft and 2mm rr
-Carbon Fiber towers
Links:
Front Link - Middle inside on tower, middle on KPI caster block (longer than long on stock caster block)
Rear Link - Middle inside on tower, Long high on rear upright
-Rear arm insert - RF-Inside, RR-Middle (This provides the outboard toe in but it is narrower than I ususally run, but was required to fit IFMAR width dimensions)
-Front Link 17.7mm, -Steering Link 30mm, -Rear Link 13.55mm
-Droop measured from shock length 106.5 / 119.5, From Chassis to ground 51/58
-Lexan Kyosho wing (hole 15mm back from prescribed position) with 5mm wing riser.
-Steering Servo Speed (Can program the Futaba servos with the Futaba Radio and started with my normal settings which are Steering 0.13 and Throttle 0.125. Also started with 90 on Steering Speed (turn) function. (This was put to 100 when I started changing my Servo speed, until the point where I reference Steering Speed settings again.)*
So now that you have the details of my set-up here is a run by run breakdown of what I felt and then what changes I made for the next run.
(Please note that foams were taped down for every run all week. To see how and why I do this check out this video:
P1 (Practice 1) - MLW Lux tires - Notes: Track was very grippy, Roll center in the rear too high (I felt this because rear wasn't rolling into the track and was staying high), All springs too soft(Car didn't have support through the high grip corners), Dumps on front, traction rolling
P2 - Same set of tires from P1, Changes: C block- small dot up, D block 2.5 dot up and out (Lowered rear hinge pin 1mm from C and D block, Lower roll center), Center diff (200K with 12/18 2 gear diff), Rear hub insert Low inside (Raised rear axel height to allow lower ride heights), Rear upper link Low outside on hub + low inside on tower, Aluminum A block (-15g off A block), Black 72 front and black 86 rear springs, 22/25 Ride Height, 55mm rear droop at chassis (3mm less), 1mm shim under ackerman plate (from 2mm) to give a little more bump out, 2.5mm wing riser.
Notes: Better, less tippy, more roll into corners, front collapses after 1/2 compression (spring?), Rear roll center still feels high, still traction rolling especially at slower speeds?
(What we have noticed is the 1.6mm springs have less support deeper in the travel. They get kind of lazy past half compression on higher grip. This hasn't been an issue at US tracks, but on this high grip track the 1.5mm springs had better support deeper in the travel and are a bit more lively and responsive.)
P3 - Same tires as P1 + P2, Changes: Rear link middle in on tower (raised, thus lower roll center), 2.7 rear sway bar, Front diff (60K 2 gear 10/20 gears), Rear diff 50K 2 gear 10/20 gears), No wing riser, 21/23 Ride Height, Blue 70mm front spring, new test blue 72mm rear spring (1/2 coil more than Brown 72mm (front spring utilized on rear)), Droop 107/120 - 48/53 at chassis,
Notes: Getting better, maybe could use stiffer rear spring, need to smooth out steering timing, think I need to try 4 gear front and rear diffs.
P4 - MLW Lux tires - Changes: Front diff 40K (4 gear 10/20), Rear diff 30K (4 gear 10/20), Brown 72mm rear spring (stiffer by 1/2 coil than P3), 2* rear toe dot up and out, 2.3 front and 2.6 rear swaybar (lighter on both by 0.1mm), 2/3 rear hub spacing (forward 1mm), Front and rear links high on tower (up 1 hole on both, lower roll center), Front caster spaced 2/1 (moved back 1mm), Front and Rear links 2 flats tighter (more camber) each flat is about .25mm*
Notes: Best yet, bit dumpy though, oil? spring? (In hindsight know it is mostly diffs..)*
P5 - Sames tires as P4 - Changes: Front diff 50K (4 gear 10/20), Center diff 100K (2 gear 10/20), Rear diff 40K (4 gear 10/20), Ackerman back 1 hole # 3f, Front shocks out on front tower (looking for more support), Glue front sidewall, Steering Link 1 flat tighter
Notes: Pace is ok but have oversteer on corner exit contributing to rear dumping, exit feels loose, dumpy and rolly (Maybe need angled pistons)? (Feel the ackerman back gives more mid to exit steer, so now feel I need to move it forward)
P6 - MLW SuperNova tires - Changes: Ackerman full forward # 1f, 1 flat longer Rear link, 1 flat longer steering link, 1.2x8 tapered front piston with 600 oil (hoping to slow down front reactions). Rear oil 600 (thicker by 50), internal shock springs under pistons (to limit weight transfer on and off power and keep car flatter), Rear spring 70mm red (This is the closest rate wise to the 81mm blue which I wish I had but didn't).
Notes: Good overall, still perhaps diffing out a bit, still a bit too much exit steering/hook, but spring felt good and overall pleased.
SP1 -(Seeding Practice 1) - MLW Lux - Changes: 2mm Bump shim under ackerman plate (added the 1mm back to it), 1 flat longer steering link (minor adjustments for the ackerman position), 650 front oil, Changed servo speed in servo to Steering 0.4, Throttle 0.16,
Notes: Too much exit steer but lack tight cornering a little, feel loose on exit.
SP2 -(MLW Super Nova from P6) - Changes: Servo speed in servo to Steering 0.44, Throttle 0.171. 20/22 Ride Height. Aluminum towers front and rear (more consistent, less flex, maybe little less grip), Stand up rear shock on tower, C block small dot down, D block 2.5 rear toe dot down and out. (raised inner hinge pin 1mm for more support)
Notes: Best yet, better rear support, car didn't wiggle in chicanes. JQ finally got to watch car and said rear was diffing out and rear Ride height was borderline too low.
Seeded 16th overall*
Q1 - MLW Super Nova - Changes: Front Diff 100K (4 gear 10/20), Rear diff 100K (4 gear 10/20), Steel A block again, Glued front sidewall, 20/23 ride height, Servo Speed in servo to Steering 0.500, Throttle 0.182,
Notes: Car was very loose on exit and loose in general. Feel like went too high on diffs. (In hindsight, wish I would have stuck with the front and rear and raised center and kept working at it.)
Q2 - Same tires as Q1 - Changes: Front diff approx 65K (4 gear 10/20), Center diff approx 120K (2 gear 10/20), Rear diff 60K (4 gear 10/20), Aluminum A block again, 1 flat longer rear link (less camber), Steering speed in servo to 0.522. Link check Front - 17.2mm, Steering - 30.1mm
Notes: Just not smooth, felt ok but slow + lack comfort.
Q3 - 4th run MLW Lux (lower tread height perhaps important) - Changes: Front link inside on new KPI caster block(trying to achieve more front support), link length front - 13.2mm, Steering - 29.7mm, 2.7 rear swaybar, 20/22.5 Ride Height, Servo Speed in servo to Steering 0.300, Steering Speed (turn) 90 (radio setting).
Notes: OK, but can't land back slap double well, + erratic exit grip / steps out / front diving.
Q4 - Clay Lux - Changes: 18* Caster with KPI hubs (Goal to not throw as much weight to outside rear on exit with less caster), Front link middle on hub - length 17.2mm, Steering link 30.1mm, Front hub spacing 1/2 (forward 1mm again looking for more front support) Steering Speed (turn) 86, (return) 90, Throttle Speed (turn) 91, 19/22 Ride Height.
Notes: Decent if very smooth, could go slower on radio speed, feels like maybe diffing out + getting out of shape, had lots of steering, turned down dual rate 4 points.
Q5 - Same as Q4 - Changes: Front diff approx 80K (4 gear 10/20), Center diff 200K (2 gear 10/20), Rear diff approx 75K (4 gear 10/20). Steering speed (turn) 83, (return) 88, Throttle speed (turn) 88
Notes: Easier to drive but tires went bald + lost pace. Diving on front a bit, maybe go heavier front diff,
Q6 - SLW Lux (wanted to try softer compound than MLW knowing I would possibly need to run them for Main day due to it being a cooler day so wanted to get a feel for them) Changes: Front diff 100K (4 gear 10/20), Steering Speed (turn) 80, (return) 86, Throttle Speed (turn) 85. 1 flat tighter rear link (more negative camber)
Notes: Easier to drive, had one good lap, rear seemed to loose support at times suddenly. The heavier front did support the front better in corners and didn't dive as much.
1/4 Final - Clay Lux - Changes: 2.8 rear swaybar, Glue front sidewall, 21/23RH, Arm insert rf middle (removed out board toe in)
Notes: Car was decent especially mid race. Last 5 minutes or so on slick tires really had to stay in the groove or could get out of shape. Rear was a bit stiff swaybar wise.
Takeaways and things that could have improved the results in my opinion.
-Most critical was getting up in the diffs. These are just numbers I have never ran before and so taking it increment by increment seemed safe, but kept us behind the 8 ball for far too long.
-I needed to find some other geometry changes to allow me to feel comfortable with a lighter rear sway bar. Running above 2.6 would exacerbate an inside rear lifting off the ground in corners. This would precipitate the rear diffing out and loosing speed and stability. But when I ran a 2.6 I felt I didn't have enough support on the cornering exit. For sure needed more time on this setting.
-Wish I would have started slowing down the servo speeds earlier. Thanks to Paul Ciccarillo for the nudge to go further than I was comfortable in this regard. It absolutely helped make the car easier to drive but again, when you've never tried it before to this extent and you ease into it, it takes time to adjust and get comfortable.
Ending SET-UP (Changes in RED)
Diffs:
F-50K (2 gear, 10/20 gears) 100K (4 gear, 10/20 gears)
C-70K (2 gear, 12/18 gears) (12/18 gears require another 50% or so thicker than 10/20) 200K (2 gear, 10/20 gears)
R-40K (2 gear, 10/20 gears) Approx 80K (4 gear, 10/20 gears)
-A Block - (Steel)(Aluminum) Center, B Block - (Steel) up, C - Sm Dot Down Sm dot up, D - 2.5 dot down + out 2.5 dot up + out
-New (Proto) KPI front hubs w/ 20* 18* Caster, Spaced with 1mm in front and 2mm behind (This part is still being decided if it will be produced)
Shocks:
Front - Middle Out on tower, out on arm, Red Blue 70mm spring, 1.2 x 7 (600 oil) 1.2 x 8 tapered (650 oil), Bladder w/ foam behind + no screw in Emulsion cap, 2mm uptravel limiter.
Rear- Middle Out on tower, out on arm, Red 81mm Red 70mm spring, 1.3x7 (550 600 oil), Bladder w/ foam behind + no screw in Emulsion cap.
-Long rear shock standoff
-2.4 2.3 front / 2.6 2.8* rear Swaybar, *Wish would have stayed lower
-Ackerman hole # 2f 1f (extra hole toward back of car, utilizing 2nd hole from front) Ackerman plate shimmed up 2mm with no shims under Steering link (To adjust bump steering to be minimal)
-F 23mm 21mm, R 25mm 23mm RH,
-Universals Front and Rear
-Hard Arms front and rear
-Standard hex front and rear (Had been running wide at home but to make width had to narrow up the car)
-Aluminum rear upright with insert hole high and inside Low and inside. Spaced w/ 3mm ft and 2mm rr 2mm ft, 3mm rr
-Carbon Fiber towers Aluminum Towers
Links:
Front Link - Middle High inside on tower, middle on KPI caster block (longer than long on stock caster block)
Rear Link - Middle High inside on tower, Long high Low on rear upright
-Rear arm insert - RF-Inside middle, RR-Middle (This provides the outboard toe in but it is narrower than I ususally run, but was required to fit IFMAR width dimensions)
-Front Link 17.7 17.2 mm, -Steering Link 30 30.1 mm, -Rear Link 13.55 13.4 mm
-Droop measured from shock length 106.5 107 / 119.5 118.5, From Chassis to ground 51/58 48/53
-Lexan Kyosho wing (hole 15mm back from prescribed position) with 5mm no wing riser.
-Steering Servo Speed (Can program the Futaba servos with the Futaba Radio and started with my normal settings which are Steering 0.13 and Throttle 0.125. Ended with Steering 0.300 and Throttle .182 as well as the Steering Speed in the radio at (turn) 83, (return) 88, and Throttle speed (turn) 88.
As far as the racing goes and how things went for me. The highlights were in Seeding round 2 getting an 11th for the round and seeding 16th overall as the highest American. Then qualifying with better points than two years ago with 66 points for 3 runs vs. last time with 74. This still netted me 31st qualifier though putting me in the 1/4 final.
This year in the quarter final I had much better pace than last time. Learning from last time and using a better compound I was compeitive in this final and had some great battles. I had a bit of a unfortunate incident on lap 2 with a wayward buggy as seen in the video below. I was also in bump position later in the race and it was mine to loose which unfortunately I did just that with a few bobbles relinquishing the spot and also not staying tight and clean on my last 2 laps to perhaps capitalize a bit better on the battle for the last position. In the end coming up just short in 5th and in the end 26th overall.
I would like to congratulate my teammates Phi-Long and Reno for making the semi-finals and putting in excellent drives with their Kyosho buggies. We all worked together very well and learned a lot and good things are coming for the Kyosho faithful! Also congrats to Davide Ongaro for the 3 peat. Super impressive, you can see the hard work and dedication continuing to pay off. Bravo!
Wack that Rivkin blasted you! You are always a class act Ryan. Keep it up, you are appreciated!
This is a very good report on how a pro driver set-up his car during a race, I hope next time on this kind of surface will be better for you Ryan, and hope you will had a better starting setup to show your real skills.
Nio